Breathing easy(ier)

Dear Kolkata,
We really tried. We tried to love you, and have you love us. We even thought we would stay a few weeks, But it didn't work out, did it? Instead you got us sick, and clogged our lungs with smog and our ears with honking, and really tried our patience with the traffic jams... so bad that we had to get out of cabs and walk instead. So we had to leave you... we still had a good time, and appreciate the good that was there. But we are happy to be in Varanasi instead!


Yes, we ended up leaving Kolkata after being there for about a week.. the traffic and pollution was getting to us! However, Kolkata is one of the last places that still has man-pulled rickshaws. One more thing on the road to add to the taxis, cows, goats, people, motorbikes, regular cars, dogs, and bicycles.

We still managed to have some good times in Kolkata, despite both of us getting a bit sick. And naturally we found more great places to eat, and sit around and drink lots of chai, of course. Dosas are one of our favorites.

We also went to volunteer at the Mother Theresa Mission. It turns out that they have so many volunteers in January that we were only give 2 hour shifts working in a home for hospice patients.

Before leaving, we took a motorbike tour of the city. Among many temples, holy ghats (with goat sacrifices), an artist village, the biggest banyon tree in the world, and the flower market...

This picture is so "India!" Heaps of flowers at the market, clothes hanging on a line to dry, a great example of the classic Indian squat, and a cell phone for good measure.

 We also saw Garbage Mountain.Yes, that hill is all garbage.

40,000 people live and work around here, collecting "all" of the garbage from the city and then breaking down what they can, even composting to fertilize the farms below. This is only a small section of the mountain, and apparently there are 4 or 5 of them! Soooo, seeing as how this was a tour "highlight," we decided it was time to leave Kolkata.




Varanasi is another world entirely. It's a city that epitomizes why India is often referred to as the "Land of Contrasts." Chaotic yet calm, very dynamic,and colorful. Somehow it also feels peaceful, even among the dogs, cows, goats, chai stalls, flute players, snake charmers, snack sellers, and babas. It's a holy city on the Ganges River, where Hindus come to be cremated before their ashes are put in the river... the same river where people bath, pray, wash clothes, swim, wash their cows, and brush their teeth. We have spent our days drinking chai while watching locals play cricket next to the river or the kids flying kites, walking up and down the ghats (steps leading down to the Ganges), taking a sunrise boat ride, eating amazing food, and even squeezed in massages for JB's birthday.

B-day boat ride

These are placed in the river as an offering at sunrise and sunset

View from the boat

Samosas and other fried goodies at one of our favorite eateries

Behind the river is the old city, filled with small, winding alleyways that are littered (literally) with temples and small statues built into the walls of buildings. Making your way through the alleys is an experience in itself, winding around cows (and their droppings), motorbikes, kids, vegetable sellers, and banana peels thrown by monkeys.

 Every night along the river there are several huge ceremonies complete with music and singing, and priests offering flowers, incense, and candles. The productions go on for over an hour!

Showing off our Indian flag sweatbands, which we wore for the Republic Day holiday (also JB's birthday!)

We will be in Varanasi until Monday, and then are off on a cross country surf mission. That's right, if surf exists in India, Jeremy will find it. We will travel in style on a train south, and then another train west to Mangalore for a few days, and then head back up north to see the Taj before going up to the mountains. Living the dream....!